7 May 2012…

A day on which I Holler Uncle!

What? Why? Come again?

OK, well in this specific case I need to put the breaks on new custom mold making projects.  In reviewing my current queue of mold making projects, I find that I just plain have too much work to do. So, from now though July I’ll be taking no New mold making projects. There are of course exceptions to every rule. In this case, if I’m already working on projects for you, you are exempted from this halt on new projects. If you simply need one, or two pieces molded (in a shared mold), I can still take your project, as I will have need for some filler here and there.

20mm Napoleonic Update:
Some progress has been made on the 20mm Napoleonic project. A while back I had started sorting and looking into new molds for the 20mm Austrians. last night I finished sorting and counting master/patterns for this range and find that we have maters and or patterns for all the Austrian specific figures. I’m still trying to decide how best to proceed with the overall remolding project, but at least I now have a solid starting point. My next steps for this project will roughly be as follows:

  • Make a ‘test’ mold
  • Based on results from the ‘test mold’
    • If all looks ‘good’
      • make final determination on # of molds needed to remold the entire Austrian range
      • calculate and budget for mold costs (time & materials)
      • determine  new pricing for 20mm Napoleonic figures
      • define pre-order process & pricing for 20mm Austrians
    • If test mold proves problematic
      • Step back and see what we can do to solve molding issues
  • Assuming we are ‘go’ for 20mm Napoleonic molding using data from our Austrian pilot project
    • Map our remaining molds for the entire range
    • Set budget and schedule
    • setup pro-prder program
    • make molds, cast and ship figures

More on this one just as soon as I can complete the test mold.

Joe Morschauser Miniatures:
In my last post the article mentions:

"...some castings Joe Morschauser sent me that “represented” 
whole battalions of men scaled at about 5mm..."

I knew that I had some of these in one of my many boxes of figures, so I added finding them to my TODO list. Well, I was searching for some other bits and pieces (for another project)  on Saturday and guess what I found? If you guess a million dollars you are wrong. I you guessed ‘figures by Joe Morschauser’ you would be correct! I took some pictures on Sunday, but I need to edit those a bit – or take new pickets with a better camera! Anyhow, be sure to check back later in the week for some pictures of these almost unknown miniature figures.

Scruby N-Gauge WWII French:
I know, you are saying to yourself:  “There ain’t no such thing!
Well, before Saturday I would have agreed with you. At first, I thought that I had found a completed Scruby WWI figure, but after a second look, the figure in question was not (WWI) late war French, but rather WWII French. Alas we are looking at a single pose (on guard). This is a simple figure, no extra kit, just on guard with rifle. Now, I don’t have a lot of background on this figure, but based on what I do know, I suspect this was intended to represent Vichy French in North Africa (North Africa, being the theme for Scruby’s N-Gauge WWII line). I’ll be posting pictures along with the Morschauaser pictures mentioned above. Oh, and Yes. I will put this figure into production. I will take another swing though my Miscellaneous N-Gauge stash just to make sure I don’t have any other ‘lost gems’ waiting for production – there is an incomplete N-gauge cow…

OK, well that should be enough for today, especially since I’ve teased you with promises of pictures – so I should use what little spare time I have to finish up some photos and editing…

Figure Size : N-gauge

Looks like this will be my last post on the subject of ‘Figure Size’ – well at least for a while, as I’ve gone through my stack of old magazines and publications and have run out of steam and material. Oh, I’m sure this won’t be my last post on the subject, but it may be a while before the next one…

This time we jump to 1973 and see what pushed Jack Scruby into N-Gauge war gaming…

Wargaming in N-Gauge

By: Jack Scruby

The Soldier Factory News Volume 1, Spring 1973

I have a particular attachment for N-gauge tin soldiers for they brought me back into wargaming after a three year layoff.

After my heart attack in late ’69, I made a great change in my way of life, and I found I really did not have the time anymore to play war games. Generally I played games prior to that on Saturday nights. But, under my new regime..which required much physical exercise (which takes time!) … I played golf on Saturdays, and after hiking 5 miles following the little white ball, I just couldn’t get up energy enough to set up a war game and have at it.

After a period of time, I just lost interest in war gaming itself, although I did try about three games with David Rusk. Somehow, they were not satisfactory, so I gradually “gave up” the thought of playing.

During the year and a half I worked for Ambrite Industries, my contact with wargamers was almost lost, as I spent most my time designing things other than wargame soldiers. When Ambrite and I broke up our business arrangement, I suddenly was once again thrust into becoming active in the war game world and in trying to keep my business going.

All along, in the back of my mind during this non-playing period, a thought had been nagging me that somehow all the various scales and model soldiers I made just were not the answer I wanted if I ever took up wargaming again. I was not sure of what I really was looking for until one day I began thinking about N-gauge soldiers.

What really sparked the thing was some castings Joe Morschauser sent me that “represented” whole battalions of men scaled at about 5mm (Editors Note: I have some of Morschauser’s 5mm figures and will be digging them out and posting some pictures). Frankly, I could not stand them, and I remembered a visit Jim Oden had made years before to my plant, where he had brought some N-gauge Civil War soldiers he had made for himself.

Jim had wanted me to design some for him, but at that time I just couldn’t see that scale, so I turned him down. However, it must have registered on my mind, because I can still picture those particular soldiers of Odens to this day, and I thought that I’d design a couple and see what they looked like.

Well, the rest is history now. And there is little doubt in my mind that N gauge war games are here to stay and I intend to eventually come out with all historical periods in N—gauge that I now have in other war game scales.

In order to visualize what an army of Napoleonic N-gauge soldiers would look like, I began painting up several hundred. Once these were completed, I bought a few N-gauge houses, forests, etc., and set up a table to look at. It was not long before a tremendous urge took over and DEMANDED that I fight someone a war game in this scale.

It was during this time that I moved from my old plant at Ambrite to my new plant in Goshen. And here..at last… I had enough extra room to put up a real war game setup. I pulled all my wargame equipment from my home, and set it up at the Goshen plant, and with Mike Frank’s help and with much of his equipment; we wound up with the greatest wargame setup in California… if not the USA!

I set up my first wargame in N gauge on a 6ft by 8ft table top. I immediately saw this was not what I wanted. So l I turned to, painted hundreds more soldiers, bought many more houses, made many more farm houses and villages in N gauge, and before long, was able to set up a table top 20feet long by 8 feet wide.

AT LAST! Here was a dream come true! Here was a real campaign available! I talked Mike Frank into trying out a test battle (don’t kid me; he was as excited as I was to try his hand at this fabulous looking game!). We fought each noon and during any coffee breaks we had available. The battle hung on for over a week….  we looked forward each day to fighting… it wound up to be the most exciting and rewarding war game I had ever fought in! And it ended up in a draw! This is perfect, when two opponents are almost equal in wargame ability, especially when they are testing out rules!

We neither of us could wait for the next battle! This second action was even better than the first, for by now we knew the rules. Once again, it was a draw.

The third battle was organized for our War Game club members to fight in. Mike commanded one side, I the other. There were five other “generals” per side under our command. I had never liked fighting this type of game before, but this game proved to me that I had been wrong, and I found fighting in N-gauge scale in this type of game was perfection itself.

Each “general” fought his own tactical battle, while I, as commander, only issued strategy movement to them. It was exciting to watch each set of opponents fight their own battle in their own tactical way ; each an individual fight, but connected in its entirety to the whole strategic concept Mike and I had planned out for our sides.

Since that time Mike and I have continually had a huge N-gauge war game going. These often last three weeks, with at least 3 moves being made each day. It is the first time in my life I’ve had room enough to leave up a war game table for such a long time, and for me, I find I can devote the time to wargaming on this basis, without interfering with the new way of life I progressed into since my heart attack.

Okay. So you readers will agree that I am personally sold on N-gauge. So where does that leave the average war gamer who does not have a 20 foot table; who cannot leave a war game table set up for weeks on end; who does not even, perhaps, have room for an 8 foot war game table!

The answer of course is that N-gauge can be played on the massive scale that I play it….. Or it can be played on a 3ft square card table. In fact, N gauge can be played on a war game board game square or board. It can be played on a standard 8ft war game table top. N-gauge is a very versatile scale. It depends on the area you have to play in as to how you use the N-gauge scale models. The thing is the soldiers are “visible”…i.e. you can distinguish a grenadier from a voltigeur, a Highlander from a British regular..without trouble. So the model at least represents the “type” of soldier. And you can set your own “terrain scale” depending on the table top area you have to fight in.

Of course, many people will not like N-gauge, and we cannot blame them. Let’s face it, Mike Frank’s 25mm Seven Years War army is much more beautiful in appearance than the N-gauge Napoleonic army we use. From a distance, you can distinguish Mike’s individual soldiers with ease. And when our 20foot war game table is set up with Mike’s soldiers, it is one of the more beautiful sights one can see in this hobby.

And the battles one fights with these 25mm soldiers is exciting, no doubt about that at all. And those people who are sold on 25mm scale- or 20mm scale.. or 30mm scale.. will probably not change. And I can hardly blame them.

But…for the newcomer to this hobby, or for the old-timer like myself who already has a dozen other armies in a half-dozen different scales, N gauge could be the answer to many problems.

I think this can be proved by the fact that not long ago a young fellow visited the plant. He had been interested in getting into war games for years, but simply did not have the room to set one up with miniatures. He is a bachelor, lives in a small apartment, and until the N-gauge came along all he could do was dream about wargaming. Now he is involved in building up an N-gauge army and is gung-ho in the hobby.

Then, there is the old-time war gamer, my friend John Schuster (and for that matter, Charlie Sweet!). John has not done much in wargaming in eight or ten years. He has a huge and beautiful 20mm Napoleonic army that requires at least a l6 foot table top to really fight with. In his present home he simply does not have room enough to set this battle group up. As a result, wargaming was almost lost to him. Now, he is working in N-gauge, and I suspect once the army is completed , there will be some action at the Schuster home — war game wise!

So there, you have two “living” examples of what N-gauge soldiers are doing. Or, taking my own case, what they have done for me. I am getting enthusiastic enough to even think seriously about dusting off my 25mm African Colonial army and having a round with it…. Then I begin to dream of African Colonial armies in N gauge..!

And, of course, this revival of interest in wargaming on my part… and especially of my interest in N-gauge scale, has made designing of figures very easy for me, since I am really interested in them. For example, as Mike Frank or Dave Rusk can tell you one of the periods I NEVER have been interested in is Ancient Times …. I balk every time I have to redesign 20mm figures of Ancient warriors. BUT, I have been terribly interested in designing ancient soldiers in N-gauge, and this interest has allowed me to create some really nice models of this period…something I am enjoying I think because I like the scale and size, and can picture how an army of ancients would look on the table top!

In the few months Scruby Miniatures has made N-gauge troops available it is obvious others feel much like I do. My daughter, Judy McCarty, is in charge of N-gauge orders and most of her time is spent on this duty. An indication I believe, that N—gauge is here to stay in Wargaming!

Figure Size : They Don’t Make Millimeters Like They Used To

More on ‘Figure Size’. This time from January 1966…

A Call to Reason:

OR

They Don’t Make Millimeters Like They Used to

By: Aram Bakshian Jr.

Table Top Talk, January 1966

The past several years have witnessed a mysterious change in the millimeter. Like some elderly matron with a taste for chocolates, the millimeter has lost its youthful figure and gradually expanded!

At least, that is the conclusion one draws when examining some of the model soldiers designated by their manufacturers as “20mm scale”. Some of them stand an inch high, some less than three-quarters of an inch. The effect, when they are viewed side by side, is that of a confrontation between Charles DeGaulle and Mickey Mouse!

Dr. DeGre’s recent proposal that wargamers and collectors band together and declare 20mm scale to equal l/8th of an inch to the foot may have come too late, but it is an excellent one.

Of course there has always been a great deal of variance in miniatures of all types. Anyone who has ever stood a Graham Farish or a Vertunni next to a Metayer or a Mignot knows what I mean. In addition, the same designer may unwittingly slip over the years, or change his “interpretation” of the millimeter.

Compare an early Bussler Revolutionary War Costume piece with his later Battle of Trenton series. In theory they are both “standard 54mm scale!”. In reality one is a short scare crow, the other is an over-stuffed giant! More than one outspoken critic of the magnificent Stadden line has been heard to remark that his remakes look considerably taller and better-fed than his initial models. I also heard one add that they seem to suffer from a strange glandular disorder which results in swollen heads lengthy arms and shrunken feet! This of course, is debatable, and the real issue does not concern any one maker alone.

For despite the myriad of individual preferences and prejudices, all collectors and wargamers can agree on the fact that 1 mm equals 1mm – never any more or less!

The simple table at the end of this article speaks for itself. A figure that is 1” high may be excellently crafted, but it simply is not 20mm!

In a way, while no fraud is intended, there is a great deal of “error” in manufacturers’ designation of scale.

1mm equals . 03937 inch – therefore:

20mm equals . 7874 Inches

30mm equals 1.181 inches

54mm equals 2.125 inches

Figure Size : Small Scale War Game Figures (16mm)

Again on the subject of ‘Figure Size’ I have reread a 1958 article by A.W. Saunders. I this article Mr. Saunders tells us about his new 5/8 inch war game figures. Some quick math tells us that 5/6 inch come to about 15.875mm, so if we round up we arrive at 16mm. I do recall reading about other 16mm figures, but this is the earliest reference I can find. These were not commercial figures, but this is yet another indication that the figure size was chosen for its fit with model kits about the size of the TT railroad scale (TT scale is a model railroad scale; size of which falls in between HO and N scale.  Its actual scale measurement is 1/120, or 0.10 inch = one foot, or one inch = ten feet). Lastly we will also note the size designation is 5/8 rather than some millimeter designation.

Small Scale War Game Figures
By A.W. Saunders

The War Game Digest – December 1958

In recent years many war game players have gone down in scale as far as war games go, Not so many years ago the standard size 54 mm models were locked upon as ideal for the armchair general, but it will be remembered by most that H.G. Wells advocated the use of smaller figures, Not so very long ago came the 30 mm S.A.E. figures, and ideal size for the game and may collectors went over to this scale as one giving much more table room, New with the advent of the excellent Greenwood and Ball figures, produced by Jack Scruby at a reasonable price, many players seem to be going down to 3/4 inch figures which to my mind is a better size for realism? I myself have of recent months gone down to an even smaller figure one 5/8 of an inch tall, As a staunch advocate of the smaller figure for war games, my watchful eye saw not so long ago in the British Home stores some really fine little plastic kits at only 1/ each, roughly about l4 cents The series on sale included Civil War locomotives, prairie wagons, horse drawn fire pumps, coronation coach, stage coach and three types of aeroplanes all in about the TT railroad scale, which by my reckoning makes an infantryman 5/8ths of an inch. By the way I am sure that these kits originated from the Ideal Toy Corp, of the U.S.

I began to ponder on the whys and wherefores of these kits and decided to have a shot at using the excellent material available for moulding and casting, The supply wagons of course were cheap enough to buy and use as bought and for artillery wheels and cavalry horses the fire pump kit supplied three horses per kit and two wheels of just the right size for cannon and limbers. The coronation coach had the riders I wanted and a mould was soon made of these and the fire pump horses. Both came out of the mould very well and very soon two cavalry squadrons of twenty troopers each were made aid painted. I found the wheels almost impossible to cast so went out and bought up the entire stock if fire pumps in the stores, finishing up eventually something like 30 fire pumps which gave me a total of 60 wheels and 90 horses, then I came to the great snag, the infantrymen.

This little figure I made myself, but try as I might, I could not get out very good castings, I sent them to Jack Scruby for his inspection and back came the suggestion that solved the problem, if I never did thank you for this Jack, thanks a lot. The solution was simple, make a thicker base and fill from this base.

With the infantryman solved, I soon amassed a sizeable number in all, to date, I have made and painted 240 infantrymen, 40 cavalry and two cannon with 10 cannoneers Of course as homemade figures, the models are not in great detail, in fact this isn’t needed in such a small scale. Look at them singly and one doesn’t think much of them, but put them out enmasse on the table with colours flying and the effect of the whole is quite satisfying, almost as if one were in Professor Lowes’ balloon hovering over the battle field. The extra room gained for maneuvers makes the whole lot of hard work I have put in worth it and already I have mad moulds and cast some modern figures for a game of this period, (1939-45), In this case the infantryman is in exact scale with the Authenticast tanks.

I am finding too, that with this very small scale, I can become ambitious as far as the Civil war goes bring into the game much that would not be possible on my ten by five table with 30 mm figures. It is well known that the Civil War, as much if not more than most wars, brought into play the whole panoply of the art of war. This terrible conflict saw terrific land fighting in field warfare, sieges and far flung cavalry raids. A blockade was carried out by the north and some very fierce naval warfare took place on the rivers, submarines of great ingenuity were used, manned by crews of great courage. Partisan activity was rife. In fact their isn’t much in the art of war that cannot-be tried out on the war game table in period, no wonder the Civil War is such a favorite with so many war gamers.

Figure Size : Various Scales

Taking  a break from Scruby catalouges…

My collection of books contains a number of titles covering the subject of model soldiers and collecting. One of the books I’ve used as a primary reference for figure sizes and scales is ‘Scale Model Soldiers‘ by Roy Dilley; published by Almark Publications. Publication date March 1972. This was one if the first books I found that nicely covered the differences of the various figures sizes and scales.

I’ve summarized the outline of the various figure sizes covered in this book. This guide is what I have used for the last 35 + years (I didn’t obtain my copy until the late 1970s).

The following is a listing of scales, with notes concerning each. Each is based on a human figure approximately 6 feet in height, of course we all know that men height, as such it is expected that models will vary slightly within any given scale. Naturally it is expected that the dimensions of equipment, vehicles, guns, and so forth, will be scaled to the given proportions:

20 mm or 3.5 mm to the foot (1:86 to 1:90 scale): This is the scale that matches HO gauge models for railroading. The Roco Minitanks are in this scale and match nicely with these figures.

25 mm, or 4 mm to the foot (1:76 to 1:72 scale): This is the scale that matches OO gauge railway models, and permits usage  of OO scenic items.

30 mm, or 5 mm to the foot (1:60 scale): A utility scale, small enough for war gaming, and large enough to allow some level of fine detail found in ‘collectors’ figures. This is also the scale of most ’flat’ figures.

35 mm, or 6 mm to the foot (1:52 scale): Another utility scale… Les Higgins produced figures in this scale (does anyone know what was produced in this scale?

40 to 42 mm, or 7 mm to the foot (1:48 to 1:43 scale): Once considered too large for war gaming . This is another of the ‘railway’ scale, being equal to ‘O’ gauge.

54 mm, or 9 mm to the foot (1:32 scale): This is perhaps the most popular scale of all for collector and ‘toy’ soldiers.

77 mm, or 13 mm to the foot (1:24 scale): Typically very detailed metal figures. The only examples I know of (and have a few in my collection) are the ‘Series 77’ unpainted kits.

90 mm, or 15 mm to the foot (1:20 scale): Statuettes of typically outstanding quality and detail

I’ve not covered a few other scales that I have seen to be somewhat popular these scales or sizes are: 32mm and 120mm. The few 32mm figures I have had over the years would easily fit in with 30 or 35mm figures. I class the 120mm figure the same as 90mm figures, just to a larger scale. I have a few figures of this size in my collection, all are unpainted. Of course the 5/6mm , the 10/12mm and 15mm are not covered above and will need to be added when I next update my figures size definitions.

Off to see what more I can dig up in my book collection and in the ‘Scruby Archives’…