Tactical Problem #4

Just in time for the weekend, Tactical Problem #4 from War Game Digest, December 1960.

Tactical Problem #4 (Battle of Saunderstown)

Background and Rules: The Readers Force is attacking Saunderstown, which enemy troops hold. Any troops inside houses receive more firepower, but have no extra melee power. Houses may be blown up with a dice roll of 3 or 6, and half of any troops inside are killed.

All cannons as shown on the map on the Hills are within cannon range of the village. Hills thus will assume tactical importance.

You may use more, or fewer, troops than specified, but the proportions should remain the same

Objective: For Readers troops to either seize the village and hold it -or- to isolate the enemy troops within the village, forcing them to surrender.

Forces

Readers Troops: At Point 1 (see map) are two 15 man Line Infantry regiments and one cannon. At Point 2, another gun overlooks Saunderstown, and the range is to the Church from the position on the map. On Hummel Hill (position 3) from left to right are: 1 Line Infantry regiment of 15 men, 1 regiment of 15 Light Infantry, 1 regiment. of 15 Line Infantry and three Troops of cavalry, each 10 men strong.

Enemy Troops: At Point 4 (Saunderstown) are located three infantry regiments, 15 men strong each. (These troops may be in the houses: one regiment per house only). At Point 5 there is one 15 man infantry regiment, 1 cannon and  1 cavalry troop of 12 men. On Young’s Hill is one gun (range to House #4) and two 15 man infantry regiments.

Totals

Readers Troops: 75 infantry, 30 cavalry, 2 guns .

Enemy Troops: 90 infantry, 12 cavalry, 2 guns.

Tactical Problem #4

 

Note: The Reader`s Light Infantry Regiment moves at 1 1/2 Infantry Move speed, and has half again as much firepower as an Infantry Regiment.

Short Rules and Tactical Problems

With our recent deep freeze, I found myself with a little extra free time – ok, not really free time, as I’ll have to work like crazy now that we are warming up again so that I can get caught up again. Anyhow, back to my recent free time activities…

I think I mentioned, not too long ago, that I wanted to play out a few more of the Tactical Problems from War Game Digest and Table Top Talk, but that I hadn’t decided how I wanted to do it. Well, that is one of the things that has been occupying my free time. I’ve decided to use my old N-Gauge Napoleonic armies. Many of these figures date back to the late 70’s and some have been re-based numerous times. I have: French, British, Austrian, Spanish and some Portuguese. Given the vintage of the figures, the armies were based single rank. So, 3, 4 or 6 figures per stand. Pretty much the norm for the time. I can’t for the life of me remember which rules we played and the basing doesn’t help (especially since some have been re-based several times). The figures need some cleanup – very dusty – and some basing/re-basing, but I have enough to push some stands around as they sit. So I’m good int he short term.

As for rules. This is where Short Rules come in. Short Rules by Leon Tucker (1973) is one of the rules sets that I will use for playing out some of the Tactical Problems. I’ll be using others as well, but this will be the first set that I try out.

Short Rules

Short Rules is a set of very basic Napoleonic rules by Leon Tucker (Fast Rules and Tractics are more well known rules by same author). The rules were written with plastic Airfix figures in mind (so 20/25mm miniatures). The recommended basing is three (3) or four (4) figures, in a single rank, per stand with four (4) or six (6) stands per unit/Battalion. Nothing fancy, just some figures to represent troops. I’ll be using my N-gauge figures, so I will have to adjust measurements to some degree, but not to much.

The rules are intended to be an introduction to war games and do not claim to be complete or detailed in any way. The rules earn the name Short Rules, as the actual rules are only six(6) pages long!

Movement is the usual; a base movement rate with modifiers for formation, terrain, maneuver and the like.

Musket Fire is by the stand with targets being a unit. Procedure is a simple die roll with modifiers for target type, cover and range. Casualties based n result after application of modifiers.

Artillery Fire is much the same as Musket Fire, with the addition of the type of shot used. Howitzers are accounted for as well.

Melee is again, a simple affair. A die roll with the expected modifier types – units surviving if their modified die roll is a three (3) or better.

The morale rules are simple, but effective. A unit will be: Unimpaired, Disorganized or Routed.

There is plenty of room for additions, but for a very basic game the rules have things covered.

The remainder of the rules book is various Appendix sections covering such topics as: Using & Interpreting the rules, Designation of orders, Unit Quality and the design and conduct of miniature battles.

All-in-all a very nice short set of basic Napoleonic war game rules.

Miscellenia

As many regular readers know, one of my leisure time reading activities includes re-reading old war game publications. Usually War Game Digest, Table Top Talk or Miniature Parade. I’ve been doing some research, focusing on Tony Bath. As such copies of War Game Digest has been on my reading table. The issue I was reviewing last night was from 1957. It includes a number of short pieces written by Mr. Bath (these will be part of a future post) as well as several other articles of interest (also to be featured in future posts). Jumping the the point of today’s post, we get to the ‘From the Mailbag’ section. I read two items of interest.

The first from Ted Haskell:

…One of the best ideas for measuring ranges we have found is the pencil-compass, such as is sold in dime stores. The best ones have a scle stamped on the side. It measures up to six inches, and will quickly measure off cavalry moves, artillery ranges, grenade busts, etc…….

Now, why didn’t I think of that? I’m sure many of you have already thought of this, or perhaps even use this in your games, but for me it was a brilliant idea. I don’t happen to have an old pencil compass, but I do have my drafting set from High School; it no longer needs to sit, forgotten, in a draw! The compasses can come out and be used on the war game table!

The next is from Orson Munn, Jr. (I always enjoy reading his old battle reports):

…As a comment, may I say that I think many of the readers (of W.G.D.) are going through a phase that we will all go through and eventually grow out of. Some of their rules are so complicated that their games must take days to play! Even with over 200 flats to a side we seldom take more than four hours for a game… My only advice is to keep the game’s rules simple, and don’t try to get too many different complications into it… Supplies, Doctors, grenadiers, sappers, light infantry, militia, line infantry, foot and mounted artillery, light and heavy artillery, spies, and other things all can be used at one time or another, but I am afraid what is most needed is about 12 players to a side and a lost weekend! … My advise to the initiate is to simply use infantry, cavalry and artillery and keep the game clean and fast…

Of course this was written back in the days before movement trays, so some of the extra time spent with special rules can be and has been recovered with the use of movement trays. However, the overall sentiment is one that I share: We play games and games should not be overly complex. Keep it simple and most of all have FUN!

As mentioned earlier, my recent reading has uncovered more material for TTT posts, so you can look forward to some material form Tony Bath and of course Jack Scruby.

Lastly, another new project I’ve taken up concerns Tactical Problems; I’ve been wanting play through these and have finally decided how I will do it. If I’m counting correctly, I should have plenty of N-Gauge Napoleonic figures painted and ready to do battle. While the figures will be based, they will be counted as individual figures (18 to 24 figures per unit). The forces will be French vs. Spanish/British for the most part, but I can pull in enough Austrians so I can mix things up on occasion. Using N-gauge I’ll also need to scale down the playing area, since most Tactical Problems were designed for an 8 x 6 table it will be easy enough to scale things down to fit on the smaller of of my table sections (6  x 4). The other positive side of using N-Gauge is that Ill usually have enough terrain pieces to make the table look, at least somewhat respectable.

 

Distractions!

  It never fails. Whenever I jot down a list of war game projects it seems that very shortly thereafter I’m distracted from my list by some bright shiny game project! Such was the case late last week. I had recently picked up a copy of The Best of The Dragon. Sitting by the fire I picked up the copy and began to read. The first articles were nice pieces on Metamorphosis Alpha. A game we played when it came out; one that we played, but didn’t sink too much time into. As such the articles were a nice reminder of an old game. There were numerous articles on Dungeons & Dragons (D&D), but it was an article by Gary Gygax (On Dungeons & Dragons) that captured my attention. In a nutshell it was about the origins of original Dungeons & Dragons (OD&D) . No article covering the beginning of D&D can be written that doesn’t touch on the connection between Chainmail and D&D. It was the mention of Chainmail that was my distraction.

  As may be known, Chainmail is one of my obsessions. OK, maybe it isn’t all that bad. It is however one of my favorites and it is really easy to get lost in reading and planning war games using the rules. That is exactly what happened. A quick trip out to the game room; to return with my well read copy of 3rd edition (sadly, my copies of 1st & 2nd editions are still missing – missing since the move from California). The next next task was to grab my Kindle and load up the PDF version I have (I wish Wizards of the Coast would make that available again). Armed with two copies of the rules I began to read (two copies make it very easy to look at text on one page and refer to tables and such on another page). This reading reminded me that I had a retyped version of the Geneva Medieval Miniatures rules from the April 1970 issue of Panzerfaust. I originally retyped these back in the late 1970’s as my copy of the April 1970 issue was in very, very sad shape and I really liked the rules. The typed pages were forgotten for many years, but at some point in the late 1990’s I retyped them into a plain text document/file and added them to my archives. Again the file was forgotten until a year or so ago, when I was working on another post concerning Chainmail (not yet published, as it needs some more work). OK, so to get back on point, I rooted around and found my text file and began to reformat it. The goal being to save as a PDF that I could keep on my Kindle and use as a reference when studying the rules.

  Rules review more or less complete I started to think on what type of game I could set up, given my currently painted figures. About the only 25/28mm [suitable] figures I have make up my Norse army for Warhammer Fantasy Battle (WHF) – and yes, this army dates back to when the Norse were a real and supported army. Since these are mostly old Citadel Miniatures historical figures they will work just fine for a Viking themed game. I can add similarly themed figures to these from my miscellaneous Scruby and Bloodaxe figures. I do have some 54mm plastic knights and such. I even have a castle! Not sure I have enough figures in 54mm, but perhaps the man-to-man rules could be used for a small skirmish game. The other possibility that came to mind is that I have numerous painted 15mm figures. Mostly these are based for De Bellis Multitudinis (DBM) and for the most part are gathering dust. Perhaps a few tweaks for distance/range and these figures could be pressed into service? I will have to think about this, but it seems very do-able.

  Now that I know what I have handy in the way of miniatures it is time to seriously think about some scenarios. Of course I can always just ‘do’ a standard meeting engagement type scenario. Or just borrow from one of my (many) copies of WHF – there are always a few nice scenario suggestions to be found in these rules books. In any event, I’ll look to use balanced forces for the first few games and see where things go from there.

  My Chainmail adventure has caused my previous (unpublished) post to float to the surface and with my current level of energy I may be able to finish the article before too much longer. Perhaps as soon as I receive (should be in the mail on its way to me in the next couple of days) the last of the research materials I need to complete the article? We shall see how much new information I uncover.

  Look for more Chainmail related news in the coming days.

Game Projects for 2014

This time of year I would typically be looking back at the previous year and reviewing how we did as a business and reporting on how the year went. This year I’ll be postponing that look back until February.

When not dealing with winter weather or working in the shop, or one of the many daily tasks. I’ve been pondering possible game projects for 2014. I’ve come up with a list. Will the list be final? Will I actually ‘do’ any other these projects? Only time will tell.

 

  • 15mm Colonial (US vs. Moro and First Italo–Ethiopian War)
    • I’ve decided to give the Pz8 Colonial rules a go for this. I will of course be making a few tweaks to the rules, but for the most part they look pretty good for my purposes
    • The rules can be found on the Pz8 website
  • 3mm OR 6mm Science Fiction (both New HistoriFigs figures and personal war gaming)
    • The first 6mm science fiction Infantry figures are ready to go into molds (more on these in the near future)
    • I’ve not settled on rules for my war gaming, but I do know that I’m looking for a simple set of rules
    • Oh, the theme will be future earth (or alternate universe, same period) – not much thought beyond that for now
  • 25/28mm Great Northern War (GNW)
    • For starters the two forces will be: Russia and Sweden
    • The figures will be Bloodaxe (yes, that means the figures will be listed on the website)
    • For rules I’m tempted by Black Powder. However, I’m also thinking that we might see a GNW version of the Bloodybacks rules
  • 20mm Fire and Charge
    • I have enough painted figures to fight out some British vs. French battles
    • Step One: Finish basing my figures!
    • Step Two: Play some games!
  • Napoleonic, Basic War Game
    • I have a number of painted N-Gauge Napoleonic figures that are just sitting in boxes (and have been for more then 10 years!)
    • I’ve been wanting to try of Jack Scruby’s Basic War Game rules and since at least the bulk of my N-Gauge French troops are properly based this may be the year…
  • Afrika Korps: N-Gauge WWII in Africa
    • I plan to try out the Pz8 WWII rules for this. While designed for 1/300 scale figures they will work just fine, with a few tweaks, for N-Gauge
    • The Pz8 rules can be found on the Pz8 website
    • I have a number of tracked and wheel vehicles I painted a few years back along with some infantry figures.
    • Now, I just need to sit down and play a game or three!
  • Gridded War Game:
    • I’ve been wanting to do a gridded war game for some time now. As such I’, planning on making a push to do at least one this year
    • I should be able to use my N-Gauge Napoleonic figures for this project, so the only big piece will be the gridded game board

This looks like a lot of game projects, but at least only two of them (Science fiction and GNW) are brand new.

I plan on reporting on my progress, complete with pictures! Lets see how much I can accomplish this year…

Next up will be a look forward at figure projects that are on the workbench. About all I can say right now is that we will have new releases for each of our brands (HistoriFigs, Bloodaxe Minaitures, BlastedPlanets, Resistant Roosters, Adalen Miniatures as well as some restored Scruby figures).