Short Rules and Tactical Problems

With our recent deep freeze, I found myself with a little extra free time – ok, not really free time, as I’ll have to work like crazy now that we are warming up again so that I can get caught up again. Anyhow, back to my recent free time activities…

I think I mentioned, not too long ago, that I wanted to play out a few more of the Tactical Problems from War Game Digest and Table Top Talk, but that I hadn’t decided how I wanted to do it. Well, that is one of the things that has been occupying my free time. I’ve decided to use my old N-Gauge Napoleonic armies. Many of these figures date back to the late 70’s and some have been re-based numerous times. I have: French, British, Austrian, Spanish and some Portuguese. Given the vintage of the figures, the armies were based single rank. So, 3, 4 or 6 figures per stand. Pretty much the norm for the time. I can’t for the life of me remember which rules we played and the basing doesn’t help (especially since some have been re-based several times). The figures need some cleanup – very dusty – and some basing/re-basing, but I have enough to push some stands around as they sit. So I’m good int he short term.

As for rules. This is where Short Rules come in. Short Rules by Leon Tucker (1973) is one of the rules sets that I will use for playing out some of the Tactical Problems. I’ll be using others as well, but this will be the first set that I try out.

Short Rules

Short Rules is a set of very basic Napoleonic rules by Leon Tucker (Fast Rules and Tractics are more well known rules by same author). The rules were written with plastic Airfix figures in mind (so 20/25mm miniatures). The recommended basing is three (3) or four (4) figures, in a single rank, per stand with four (4) or six (6) stands per unit/Battalion. Nothing fancy, just some figures to represent troops. I’ll be using my N-gauge figures, so I will have to adjust measurements to some degree, but not to much.

The rules are intended to be an introduction to war games and do not claim to be complete or detailed in any way. The rules earn the name Short Rules, as the actual rules are only six(6) pages long!

Movement is the usual; a base movement rate with modifiers for formation, terrain, maneuver and the like.

Musket Fire is by the stand with targets being a unit. Procedure is a simple die roll with modifiers for target type, cover and range. Casualties based n result after application of modifiers.

Artillery Fire is much the same as Musket Fire, with the addition of the type of shot used. Howitzers are accounted for as well.

Melee is again, a simple affair. A die roll with the expected modifier types – units surviving if their modified die roll is a three (3) or better.

The morale rules are simple, but effective. A unit will be: Unimpaired, Disorganized or Routed.

There is plenty of room for additions, but for a very basic game the rules have things covered.

The remainder of the rules book is various Appendix sections covering such topics as: Using & Interpreting the rules, Designation of orders, Unit Quality and the design and conduct of miniature battles.

All-in-all a very nice short set of basic Napoleonic war game rules.

Game Projects for 2014

This time of year I would typically be looking back at the previous year and reviewing how we did as a business and reporting on how the year went. This year I’ll be postponing that look back until February.

When not dealing with winter weather or working in the shop, or one of the many daily tasks. I’ve been pondering possible game projects for 2014. I’ve come up with a list. Will the list be final? Will I actually ‘do’ any other these projects? Only time will tell.

 

  • 15mm Colonial (US vs. Moro and First Italo–Ethiopian War)
    • I’ve decided to give the Pz8 Colonial rules a go for this. I will of course be making a few tweaks to the rules, but for the most part they look pretty good for my purposes
    • The rules can be found on the Pz8 website
  • 3mm OR 6mm Science Fiction (both New HistoriFigs figures and personal war gaming)
    • The first 6mm science fiction Infantry figures are ready to go into molds (more on these in the near future)
    • I’ve not settled on rules for my war gaming, but I do know that I’m looking for a simple set of rules
    • Oh, the theme will be future earth (or alternate universe, same period) – not much thought beyond that for now
  • 25/28mm Great Northern War (GNW)
    • For starters the two forces will be: Russia and Sweden
    • The figures will be Bloodaxe (yes, that means the figures will be listed on the website)
    • For rules I’m tempted by Black Powder. However, I’m also thinking that we might see a GNW version of the Bloodybacks rules
  • 20mm Fire and Charge
    • I have enough painted figures to fight out some British vs. French battles
    • Step One: Finish basing my figures!
    • Step Two: Play some games!
  • Napoleonic, Basic War Game
    • I have a number of painted N-Gauge Napoleonic figures that are just sitting in boxes (and have been for more then 10 years!)
    • I’ve been wanting to try of Jack Scruby’s Basic War Game rules and since at least the bulk of my N-Gauge French troops are properly based this may be the year…
  • Afrika Korps: N-Gauge WWII in Africa
    • I plan to try out the Pz8 WWII rules for this. While designed for 1/300 scale figures they will work just fine, with a few tweaks, for N-Gauge
    • The Pz8 rules can be found on the Pz8 website
    • I have a number of tracked and wheel vehicles I painted a few years back along with some infantry figures.
    • Now, I just need to sit down and play a game or three!
  • Gridded War Game:
    • I’ve been wanting to do a gridded war game for some time now. As such I’, planning on making a push to do at least one this year
    • I should be able to use my N-Gauge Napoleonic figures for this project, so the only big piece will be the gridded game board

This looks like a lot of game projects, but at least only two of them (Science fiction and GNW) are brand new.

I plan on reporting on my progress, complete with pictures! Lets see how much I can accomplish this year…

Next up will be a look forward at figure projects that are on the workbench. About all I can say right now is that we will have new releases for each of our brands (HistoriFigs, Bloodaxe Minaitures, BlastedPlanets, Resistant Roosters, Adalen Miniatures as well as some restored Scruby figures).

 

Literary Muster

  Long time Scruby customers may remember the Literary Muster column authored by Newell Chamberlin in Table Top Talk and Miniature Parade; while I’ve written the occasional book review, we have not had a regular literature review feature here on TTT. In re-reading several of the old TTT issues I find myself drawn to Mr. Chamberlin’s mini reviews. They have proven to be a good source for finding those older, hidden gems. Books I might never have read or known about if not for the Literary Muster. If I find benefit in these old reviews, perhaps many of you will find them of interest as well. Our thought is to post not only the original review, but to add an updated look at the titles. Lets see how they have weathered the march of time, and lets discover how best to go about finding these books, some out of print, some with new publishers. Our Literary Muster feature will be somewhat irregular, but it is something we will continue to work on and will publish the reviews as they are completed. If you would like to help with this project (read a book and write a mini-review for TTT) let us know and we will share our living review document, you can pick a title and run with it. Our format will be: The ‘new’ review, followed by the original.

And now without further delay, the premier of our new Literary Muster feature:

Born at Reveille

Born at Reveille

Is the autobiography of Colonel Red Reeder, who was, in fact, born at reveille, just as the saluting gun boomed at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, March 4, 1902. His memories come alive and include many colourful characters from his youth (as an army brat, growing up on various military bases) and of the peacetime army. Of his preference for sports over textbooks as well as his struggles at West Point, his military/wartime service and his later career as Assistant Director of Athletics at West Point.

The best quote, I’ve seen, relating to this book comes from Omar N Bradley:

“… a fascinating story of the life of one of our outstanding leaders. Colonel Red Reeder’s frank and unfailing good-humored autobiography tells what it was like to grow up on Army posts from Hawaii to Maine. Born at Reveille above all shows how a man learns to lead and what forces shape the talent for command. I recommend his book to the attention of Americans young and old.”

A very readable style, with plenty of humor. I look forward to reading more of Colonel Red Reeder’s books. Most titles are now available for the Kindle and are priced at a very reasonable $2.99 each.

Born at Reveille – By Colonel Red Reeder
Kindle Edition, July 2011, $2.99

The original review from: TTT May 1966, by Newell Chamberlin
Colonel Red Reeder who has written many interesting books on early American military history, chiefly concerning Indian campaigns of the post Civil War era, has written his autobiography, Born at Reveille (NY, Duall, Sloan and Pearce, $5.95) which is an interesting and affectionate account by an ‘army brat’ of his early life, life at West Point and in the regular army between the wars, and his service in the Pacific and European theaters during WWII. Reeder commanded the 12th US Infantry in France until he lost a leg. He is now Assistant Director of Athletics at West Point. The book is written with style and humor and contains a great deal of information on the often neglected side of Regular Army life.

A Napoleonic Colonial War Game

While planning for my 2014 gaming projects, one of the topics under consideration was Napoleon in Egypt. A colorful topic and one that doesn’t require a large number of figures for an enjoyable game. One can even re-use figures form 25mm Colonial armies.

Presented for your reading pleasure is an article from May of 1967, by none other than Jack Scruby.

 

A Napoleonic Colonial War Game

By Jack Scruby
Miniature Parade May 1967


As an old Napoleonic war gamer – plus having a great love for African Colonial war games, I have long looked for a combination Napoleonic – Colonial game which would combine the features of both. And I think I have found it, and I believe many of those who have  the Napoleonic bug will be interested in the possibilities of a game such as this. The idea is that if you are becoming bored with the big European type game, you can set it off occasionally with an African colonial campaign of the same period. But, with a large difference in tactics, rules and organization of your troops.

Since designing the new Scruby 25mm soldiers of Napoleon’s campaign in Egypt, 1798-1801, I have been working on organizing and painting an army of these figures, and am looking forward to their I completion and some different kind of war games. Although these model soldiers are based on historic fact, I shall, however, play my colonial war on a non-historical basis, which I think is going make it a very satisfying war game.

THE ORGANIZATION OF THE ARMIES

Basically, this will be a French versus British war (in Egypt of course) of the 1800 period (the very early Napoleonic era). Added to the British side will be native troops, while the French will have some irregular troops as their allies.

Both forces will be organized on a company basis. As with my 1880 African Colonial armies, a 3 inch by 2 inch balsa wood stand will hold 10 infantry soldiers (6 in the front rank, 4 in the back, with space in the center to mark the roster number of the stand), representing (on a 1 soldier equals 10 historical soldiers basis) 100 men – or a company.

A demi-brigade of French will be 9 companies strong, with 1 Grenadier company and 8 Fusilier companies. Light Infantry types will either be natives, or will be a detached company or two from a Light Infantry demi-brigade.

The value of a stand will be set at 100, with firepower set at a basic 20 kills when at full strength. Morale values will be assessed to each stand also, depending on the type of troop it is, with the Grenadier stand, of course, having the highest morale values, on down to Native irregular infantry with low morale standards.

The British infantry will be set up in the same manner, there being 10 companies per battalion (1 grenadier, 1 light company and 8 battalion companies. Turkish regulars will also represent 100 man companies, and will have Askari (trained native troops of the 1880s) firepower, movement and morale. Their morale and firepower is less than the French or British, but their movement is faster, which gives them the status of a non-elite type light infantry in fact.

Egyptian or Turkish irregular infantry will be set up on a 15 man stand, 3 inches long by 1 inch wide, representing 50 men and with low morale, fast movement, and low firepower. Besides these, there will be Arabian or Egyptian spearmen, with no muskets, for use as mass troops – highly unreliable as far as morale goes, but very good in close hand-to-hand fighting.

During the Egyptian campaign of Napoleon, cavalry were limited as far as the French and British were concerned, and here I intend to stay within historical bounds. The French brought along Dragoons and a few Chasseurs a Cheval, plus some 300 of Napoleon’s personal Guides.

The Guides, mounted 4 figures to a stand, will be the elite cavalry (with Guard status), while the Dragoons (again 4 to a stand) are the heavy line cavalry, with good hand-to-hand fighting ability. The Chasseurs (mounted 3 per stand) are the light cavalry of course, with swift movement, some carbine fire capabilities, but not too good at melee work except under good conditions.

The British had along their Light Dragoons, and these will be mounted to indicate that they are light cavalry (i.e. 3 models per stand). Their capabilities will be the same as the French Chasseurs. The Mamelukes will become the British heavy cavalry arm, and I have mounted them 4 per stand, and there will be quite a number of them available to the British force. These men, historically, were demons once they got into melee, and my rules will reflect this, and they should be excellent troops I think, since we are assuming that a British commander will be using them somewhat more craftily than did the Egyptians in the actual campaign!

Light Cavalry, of course, will have greater movement than the Heavy Cavalry, but the fastest moving cavalrymen will be the native irregular light cavalry, which will include Bedouins, Arabs and Turks. These men will have lower morale value than our white cavalry, but can use musket fire from the saddle, and should be great for harassing purposes in any war game. `

Artillery will be limited (as in all our colonial games) since it was difficult to drag heavy guns around in the desert areas. However, what guns are available, will be worthwhile having, and I mount these on a small stand with two or three crewmen around the gun to give it a realistic appearance.

 

As many readers can probably tell, this Napoleonic colonial army is based on my 1880 Colonial organization which I have reported before in Table Top Talk over the past couple of years. And it may seem that playing a Napoleonic colonial war game and an 1880 colonial game would wind up to be the same thing. But this is not true.

For, in 1880 the rifle could stop the natives several hundred yards away from the front line – but in 1800, the musket was not useful or accurate much above 40 to 50 yards. Therein lies the story which makes these two periods so totally different in tactics.

For example, in our 1880 colonial wars, our musket range is 20 inches (comparable to our infantry move of 4 inches). In our 1799-1800 game, this range will be cut to 12 inches, and since the heavy cavalry will have an 8 inch move, this means that stopping cavalry charges, or native spearmen charges, is going to be next to impossible. Where, in our 1880 games the cavalry seldom live to make a charge, in the 1800 game, the cavalry are going to be something to contend with. As a result, the overall tactics you use in one period will not work in the other. And as all war gamers know, a slight change such as this, leads to an entirely different type of battle.

We are, however, not here concerned with the man who already has an African colonial war game army. We are interested mainly in advising the Napoleonic war gamer of the potentials in a Napoleonic-Colonial war game as against the straight, European type Napoleonic war game.

In the European Napoleonic game you have basically 4 different types of infantry (Guards, Grenadiers, Lights and Fusiliers). In the Napoleonic-Colonial you can add the Askari type, the native irregular rifles and spearmen. These extra types of troops give a flair to the game you can’t get elsewhere.

In cavalry, the European Napoleonic battle gives you Guards, Heavy and Light cavalry. In the Colonial battle you·can add the native heavy and light cavalry to the roster, with all the additional problems of how to combat them during the action!

In other words, you are adding a little more action and zest to a war game with these additional types of troops, over the standardized Napoleonic organization you are used to. And the addition of these troops is what makes the game so interesting and exciting. And of course, it develops into a different tactical situation because of these additional troops. For example, in a French versus British battle in Europe, your main concern would be how to stop the thin red firing line of the British, or the heavy column of a French assault.

In Egypt (at least in my mythical campaigns), you have not only this worry, but you have to worry how to stop those damn native spearmen (at close musket range!) from smashing into you; you will be harassed no end by native irregular riflemen pecking away at your valued white Fusiliers, or by a line of stubborn Turkish infantry, or by a potential charge by the hard-fighting Mamelukes!

All things being equal then, the Egyptian campaign fights will keep you plenty busy, because you are facing so many varied types of fighters!

 

As a change of pace war game from the regular European Napoleonic action, then, the African colonial fight of the 1800 period, could be the answer.

Besides all this above, the colors of the French troops and the native troops are fantastic, and you’ll wind up with an army that is just as colorful as your regular European army ever is.

Also, your Napoleonic-Colonial war game army need not be huge, for not only were the forces small in Egypt, but the battles (at least as compared to the Napoleonic battles in Europe) were small scale actions. A basic force of some 20 stands per side would make a fine small-scale war game, with plenty of area around a normal size war game table to maneuver freely. And of course, by using the roster system and upping the combat strength of a company size stand, you can make the game last as long as desired, with only a few troops being required.

Figuring on a basis of 1 model soldier equals 10 men, I am at present working on a French army based on 800 Fusiliers, 100 or 200 Grenadiers, 2 cannons and crews, 120 Dragoons (3 stands of 4 each) 80 Guides and 120 Chasseurs a Cheval (6 stands of 3 men each). The British force will begin at 600 British battalion troops, 100 Grenadiers, 100 light infantrymen, 400 Turks (Askari type), and 200 native riflemen. There will be 200 Mamelukes and 120 Light Dragoons, with two guns.

Added to this will be some native spearmen (which I of course have from my 1880 Colonial game), plus native irregular light cavalry. Mix these all together on a war game table, and you spell A C T I O N all the way!

The Battle for Stannington Village

The Battle for Stannington Village

Tactical Problem Number 11
The Miniature Parade, May 1967

By J. Duncan Brack

The map is scaled for a 6ft by 4ft table. Usual rules for crossing hills, going through woods and note the wider river from confluence is more difficult to cross. Battle starts with Red Force moving first (or choice of flanks) after both forces have been positioned on the table in accordance with pre—drawn maps showing dispositions.

Blue Force is the defender and occupies Catraw Hill and Stannington Village and area North between roads. Maximum point value of force is 30 made up from table below.

Orders:

Defend Catraw Hill and Stannington Village, counter—offensive action may be taken.

Red Force is the attacker and before battle starts must place all his men on the table between Red base line and Red startline. Maximum point value of force is 40 made up from table below.

Orders:

Clear Stannington Village of enemy to allow Main Army to advance Northwards.

Composition of Forces

Point Value

Blue Limit

Red Limit

Line Infantry

1

15

15

Light Infantry

1

6

6

Cavalry

1.5

6

6

Volunteer Cavalry

1

0

4

Volunteer Infantry

.75

0

4

Cannon / Artillery

3

4

4

 

The forces can be selected up to the maximum point values Stated by adding the points for each unit up to the number allowed e.g. maximum number of cannons 4: point value 12

Note: Volunteer units should have less/lower combat power

The Battle for Stannington Village

The Battle for Stannington Village - Click to View larger image